PRODUCT OF THE MONTH FOR OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2004:
Garofalo Mozzarella di Bufala Campana


A distinction must be made between mozzarella made with cow's milk and that made with the milk of the water buffalo. Cow's milk mozzarella has a mild, milky flavor and a fairly tight, elastic texture, while Mozzarella di Bufala tends to have a more robust, lactic flavor that lasts beyond the initial milkiness and a slightly less firm texture. Both are made from similar recipes originating in Southern Italy and referred to as pasta filata or 'stretched curd' cheeses. This term denotes a particular process of heating the mass of curds in water and stretching it by hand or by machine. Vigorous agitation of the curd causes the loss of butterfat. The art in the production of such a mild, fresh cheese lies in the cheesemaker's ability to retain the butterfat. Hand-stretched cheese tends to be richer and sweeter than mechanized versions, but there are exceptions.

Calabro Cheese, a great New England company, produces some of the best cow's-milk fresh mozz available. A newcomer to the market out of Wisconsin, Crave Brothers, is also doing justice to the cheese. Maplebrook Mozzarella of Vermont is one of the few dairies that hand-stretches their curd. As for Mozzarella di Bufala, most is imported from Southern Italy. There are many brands on the market, so be sure to look for the Mozzarella di Bufala Campana seal to ensure that the cheese is made exclusively with buffalo milk. If you want to go local, try to find Woodstock Dairy's buffalo mozz, made in Vermont. For Italian Mozzarella di Buffala - we recommend the Garofalo label.

The buffalo is an integral part of the landscape of Terra di Lavoro. The mild climate and fertile soil of the region immediately created a natural and excellent habitat for pasturage. From the 12th-13th centuries, increasing references were made in chronicles to the presence of the buffalo in the agricultural economy of Southern Italy, especially between lower Volturno area and Sele plain. It is the love for these animals that inspires the work of Garofalo farms.

Mozzarella has an ancient history that accompanied the introduction of buffalos in the region. The word 'mozzarella' derives directly from one of the processing phases. The first historical references date to the 15th century, where it was simply called mozza, referring to the final phase of processing that ended with the cutting , or 'mozzatura' of the single round lumps of cheese. However, the monks at the monastery of San Lorenzo had already been offering it to pilgrims with a chunk of bread since 1100. At first buffalo's milk was processed in the same space where the cow buffalo was milked. From the 17th century, milk processing operations were moved to typical buildings called 'bufalare'. There, under the expert eye of a master cheese maker, or 'casaro', the milk became cheese, caciocavallo, butter and provola.

The quality of mozzarella fully depended on the cheese maker's professional skill: during the most delicate phase of processing, the outcome depended on the casaro's ability. At that time, people preferred to make ricotta and provola, which were easier to store, while mozzarella was destined to a narrow elite of gourmets. In fact, the traditional Neapolitan Crib showed provola and not mozzarella, due to its limited distribution. From the second half of the 18th century on, mozzarella became a constant feature of Neapolitan markets, and a century later the products of buffalo's milk processing crossed the borders of Campania.

Garofalo Farm's strength derives from the value of work and love for the animals. This special breed of buffalos represents a wealth that endures over time, thanks to their tenacious and peaceful nature. At Garofalo farms, life goes on as in the past, marked by the sounds and times of the land. Memories of a past tradition are found scattered everywhere. A mysterious atmosphere pervades the area, as suggested by the breeders who call buffalos by name. Today, they intend to continue along the path of its history. The most modern, avant-garde technologies are complemented by the knowledge of tradition. Garofalo products bearing the 'd.o.p.' mark (protected name of origin) are served at table all around the world. And wherever they go, they are accompanied by the smells and flavors of the homeland, its warmth and its passion.


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